So you've got your router in the house, but your shop—that crucial workspace, man cave, or home office—sits about 150 feet away with no internet. You're not alone. This exact scenario popped up on Reddit with nearly 600 comments, and the consensus was clear: you need a proper bridge, not just another repeater. But here's where it gets confusing. Some folks swear by fiber. Others push wireless bridges. A few brave souls talk about burying Ethernet. What's actually going to work for your specific situation?
I've helped dozens of homeowners and small business owners solve this exact problem. The truth is, there's no single "best" solution—it depends on your budget, technical comfort, and what you'll be doing in that shop. Streaming security cameras? Running power tools with smart features? Just checking email? Each use case pushes you toward different equipment.
Let's break this down step by step. We'll look at what actually works at 150+ feet, what doesn't, and how to implement solutions that won't leave you frustrated six months from now. And yes, we'll talk about that fiber option you mentioned—what you actually need to buy and whether it's worth the hassle.
Understanding Your Real Distance and Obstacles
First things first: that "roughly 150 ft" measurement needs verification. Grab a tape measure or use a measuring wheel. Why? Because 150 feet is right at the edge of what standard Ethernet can handle reliably. Ethernet cables have a maximum run of 328 feet (100 meters), but signal degradation starts becoming noticeable around 250-300 feet. At 150 feet, you're probably okay with quality cable—but there's a catch.
Are there obstacles between your house and shop? Trees that sway in the wind? A driveway with vehicles coming and going? Other buildings? These matter tremendously for wireless solutions. Even for wired solutions, obstacles determine whether you'll be digging a trench or running cable through the air.
Also consider what's in your shop. Metal buildings are WiFi killers—they create what's essentially a Faraday cage. Wood construction is more forgiving. Concrete blocks fall somewhere in between. The building materials will affect what kind of access point you need inside the shop once you get the signal there.
Option 1: Fiber Optic – The Professional-Grade Solution
When that Reddit thread kept mentioning fiber, they weren't wrong. Fiber is arguably the best solution for your situation, especially looking ahead to 2026. Here's why: it's completely immune to electrical interference (no worries about lightning strikes inducing current), it can handle massive bandwidth (10Gbps+ easily), and the distance limitations are measured in miles, not feet.
But what do you actually need? Let's break it down:
You'll need pre-terminated fiber cable (usually LC connectors), two media converters (one for each end), and possibly conduit if you're burying it. The media converters take Ethernet from your router and convert it to light signals for the fiber, then convert it back to Ethernet at the other end. From there, you connect a wireless access point in your shop.
The cost? About $150-300 for everything if you shop carefully. You can find pre-terminated outdoor-rated fiber cables in various lengths. The tricky part is termination—fiber connectors require special tools and skills to install properly. That's why pre-terminated is the way to go for DIYers.
Installation-wise, you'll need to bury the cable at least 18 inches deep (check local codes) or run it through conduit mounted on a fence or poles. Don't just lay it on the ground—it will get damaged.
Option 2: Point-to-Point Wireless Bridge – The No-Dig Alternative
If digging trenches or running aerial cable sounds like too much work, point-to-point wireless might be your answer. These aren't WiFi extenders—they're dedicated radios that create a transparent bridge between two points. Think of them as an invisible Ethernet cable.
For 150 feet, you have several good options. Ubiquiti's LiteBeam or NanoStation series are popular choices that won't break the bank. TP-Link also makes capable units like the CPE210. These typically operate in the 5GHz band (less crowded than 2.4GHz) and can easily handle 150+ feet with plenty of bandwidth to spare.
Setup involves mounting two units—one on your house facing the shop, one on the shop facing the house. You need clear line of sight. "Clear" means no trees, buildings, or other obstructions in the direct path. Some foliage is okay, but dense vegetation will kill performance.
Alignment matters. These units have narrow beam widths, so you need to point them accurately at each other. Most have signal strength indicators to help with alignment. Once aligned and configured (usually through a web interface), they create a transparent bridge. Your shop devices will think they're on the same network as your house.
Performance-wise, expect 200-400Mbps real-world throughput with modern units—plenty for multiple 4K streams, video calls, and file transfers.
Option 3: Direct Burial Ethernet – The Budget Choice (With Caveats)
Some Reddit commenters suggested running Ethernet directly. At 150 feet, this is technically possible—Cat6 cable is rated for 328 feet. But there are significant risks.
First, you need outdoor-rated, direct burial Ethernet cable. Regular indoor cable will fail quickly when exposed to moisture and temperature changes. Look for cable labeled "CMX" or "direct burial" with a gel-filled core or water-blocking tape.
The bigger issue is electrical grounding and lightning protection. Ethernet cable running between buildings can carry induced currents during electrical storms, potentially frying equipment on both ends. You should use Ethernet surge protectors at both ends. These devices divert excess voltage to ground before it reaches your expensive router or computer.
Installation requires burying the cable at proper depth (usually 18-24 inches) or running it through conduit. Conduit adds cost but makes replacement much easier if the cable ever fails.
If you go this route, consider running two cables while you're at it. The marginal cost is small compared to the labor of digging again later. Leave one as a spare or use it for other purposes like security cameras or intercom systems.
What About Mesh Systems or Powerful Routers?
Several people in the original discussion asked about high-powered routers or mesh systems. Here's the honest truth: they're not designed for this.
Consumer mesh systems work well within a home, but 150 feet through exterior walls is asking too much. You might get a weak signal, but it will be unreliable—dropping connections, slow speeds, and high latency. The same goes for "long-range" consumer routers. Their antennas are omnidirectional, broadcasting in all directions, not focused toward your shop.
There's also a regulatory issue. The FCC limits WiFi transmitter power. Any device claiming extraordinary range is usually playing marketing games or using technologies you shouldn't rely on for critical connectivity.
That said, if you absolutely must try a wireless solution without dedicated bridge equipment, position a router or mesh node in a window facing the shop, and another in the shop's window facing the house. Use the 2.4GHz band (it penetrates better than 5GHz). Expect mediocre results at best—maybe 10-20Mbps on a good day with no rain.
Step-by-Step Implementation: The Fiber Optic Route
Let's walk through what a fiber installation actually looks like, since that was specifically mentioned in the original post and represents the most future-proof solution.
Start by gathering materials. You'll need:
- Pre-terminated outdoor fiber cable (single-mode, LC connectors, appropriate length plus some slack)
- Two media converters (one for each end)
- Two short Ethernet cables
- A wireless access point for the shop
- Conduit or direct burial rated cable
Plan your route. The shortest path isn't always best—avoid areas where you might dig later for landscaping or utilities. Mark utilities before digging (call 811 in the US for free marking).
If burying, rent a trenching tool or use a shovel for a narrow trench. Lay the cable with gentle curves, no sharp bends. Fiber can't bend tighter than about 1-2 inches radius without signal loss. Leave service loops (extra coiled cable) at both ends in case you need to re-terminate later.
At the house end, connect the fiber to a media converter, then connect the media converter to your router's LAN port via Ethernet. At the shop end, connect the fiber to the second media converter, then connect that to your wireless access point.
Power up both media converters. They should show link lights indicating fiber connection is good. Then configure your shop access point with the same network name (SSID) and password as your house network for seamless roaming, or a different name if you prefer to manually choose networks.
Step-by-Step Implementation: Wireless Bridge Setup
For those opting for wireless, here's how to get it right.
Choose your equipment. For 150 feet, the Ubiquiti NanoStation 5AC is a solid choice that won't break the bank. You'll need two units, plus Ethernet cables and mounting hardware.
Mounting is critical. Use the included mounts or purchase separate mounting brackets. The units should be secured against wind movement. Position them high enough to clear obstacles—eaves or poles work well.
Configuration typically involves connecting one unit directly to a computer via Ethernet, accessing its web interface (usually 192.168.1.20 or similar), and setting it to "Access Point" mode. Configure the other unit to "Station" mode. You'll need to enter the MAC address or select the access point from a list.
Alignment uses the built-in signal meter. Have someone at the other end on a phone while you adjust, or use the mobile app if supported. Aim for at least -60dBm signal strength. Once aligned, tighten everything down securely.
Finally, connect the house-side unit to your router's LAN port, and the shop-side unit to a switch or access point. For a simple setup, consider the TP-Link EAP225 Outdoor Access Point for inside your shop—it handles weather variations well even if mounted indoors.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
I've seen these errors repeatedly. Learn from others' experiences.
Mistake #1: Using indoor-rated cable outdoors. It might work for a few months, but moisture will eventually wick along the conductors, causing corrosion and failure. Always use outdoor-rated cable for any permanent installation.
Mistake #2: Forgetting about lightning protection. Even if you're using fiber (which is immune), the Ethernet connections at each end need protection. Use properly grounded surge protectors. This is especially critical if you have expensive tools with computer controls in your shop.
Mistake #3: Poor grounding of equipment. Outdoor wireless units and surge protectors must be properly grounded according to manufacturer instructions. This isn't just for lightning—it prevents static buildup and ensures stable operation.
Mistake #4: Not planning for expansion. What if you want to add security cameras along the path later? Or run an intercom? Consider running conduit instead of direct burial cable. The upfront cost is higher, but adding cables later is trivial.
Mistake #5: Ignoring local regulations. Some municipalities have rules about digging, aerial cables, or even wireless transmissions. Homeowner associations might have aesthetic requirements. Check before you install.
Future-Proofing Your Installation
We're in 2026, and bandwidth demands keep growing. What seems sufficient today might feel slow in three years.
If choosing fiber, consider single-mode rather than multi-mode. Single-mode supports much higher speeds over longer distances and costs about the same nowadays. The media converters are slightly more expensive, but you'll be ready for 10Gbps or beyond.
For wireless bridges, look for units supporting WiFi 6 or newer standards. These handle multiple devices better and will remain relevant longer. Also consider units with dual Ethernet ports—you might want to connect both an access point and a security camera system in your shop.
Regardless of method, think about power in your shop. Will your access point or media converter need a UPS (uninterruptible power supply)? If you're running security cameras or network-attached storage in the shop, clean, stable power matters.
Document your installation. Take photos of cable routes before covering them. Label cables at both ends. Keep a diagram showing what's buried where. Future you will thank present you when you need to dig for something else.
When to Call a Professional
Some parts of this project might warrant professional help. If you're uncomfortable with any of these tasks, consider hiring someone.
Digging trenches, especially through areas with unknown utilities, can be dangerous. Professionals have equipment to locate utilities and trench efficiently. The cost might be $300-500, but compare that to hitting a gas line or fiber optic trunk serving your neighborhood.
Terminating fiber connectors requires specialized tools and practice. If you're not using pre-terminated cable, or if you damage a connector, a low-voltage electrician or network technician can terminate it properly. Some might even find networking specialists on Fiverr who can guide you through the process remotely if you're comfortable with the physical work but need configuration help.
Also consider professional help if you need to mount equipment high on poles or roofs. Falls from ladders cause serious injuries every year. Professionals have the right safety equipment and experience.
Making Your Decision: A Simple Flowchart
Still unsure? Ask yourself these questions:
1. Are you willing to dig a trench or run aerial cable? If yes, fiber is best. If no, go wireless bridge.
2. Is there clear line of sight between buildings? If yes, wireless bridge works well. If no, you must go wired.
3. Do you have expensive electronics in the shop? If yes, fiber's electrical isolation is worth the extra effort.
4. Will you be running power tools or machinery that might cause electrical interference? If yes, fiber again.
5. Is this a temporary setup (less than 2 years)? Wireless is easier to remove.
6. Do you anticipate needing more than 1Gbps bandwidth in the future? Fiber handles this easily.
Most people with your 150-foot distance end up choosing point-to-point wireless because it's easier to install and provides plenty of bandwidth for typical shop activities. But if you're technically inclined and want the absolute best reliability, fiber is worth the extra effort.
Wrapping It All Up
Getting WiFi to your shop isn't as simple as buying a more powerful router, but it's absolutely achievable with today's technology. The key is choosing the right method for your specific situation and implementing it properly.
Fiber optic gives you professional-grade reliability and future bandwidth. Wireless bridges offer no-dig convenience with excellent performance. Direct burial Ethernet sits in the middle—cheaper than fiber but with more limitations.
Whichever path you choose, take your time with planning and installation. Measure twice, dig once, as they say. Test everything before making it permanent. And don't be afraid to ask for help—whether from online communities like that original Reddit thread, or from professionals who do this every day.
Your shop deserves good internet. With the right approach, you can have reliable connectivity that makes working out there more productive and enjoyable. Now go make something great—with full bars of WiFi.
